For the past six months, Chris Harman's pub has been packed to the rafters. Almost every night, all 35 seats have been taken, and his chicken liver and Cointreau pate, his marinated lamb kleftiko and his black tiger prawn stir-fry have been flying out of the kitchen.
Good news, one might have imagined, in such straitened times. But Mr Harman, 53, is not happy. Which is hardly surprising, given that he has pocketed a paltry £5.50 a head for the privilege of serving his award-winning food (glass of wine included) to some 750 of those customers.
"I am exhausted," he explains. "Everyone in the trade is struggling as it is, but what has happened to us has ruined our whole year. I wouldn't wish it on our worst enemy."
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